The Frey family, Swiss bankers with a taste for fine wines, have this year added Rhone producer Jaboulet to their portfolio of wine holdings, which has also included Chateau La Lagune since the 1960’s. They clearly have a sharp eye for unexploited potential and one hopes that Jaboulet will benefit to the same extent that La Lagune has. The wines from this expansive vineyard in Ludon, at the southern end of the Médoc, have become steadily oakier, darker and more structured since the mid-nineties, and the prices have also become more serious, but there is a discernible house style, and a real elegance, charm and character that remains, all of which explains the huge popularity of this wine. The 2005 is deep purple, almost black. It shows strength on the nose, ripe berries and flowers, sweet blackcurrant fruit on the palate with grippy tannins that lead to a long, very smooth finish. Very good.