Château Monbousquet, St Emilion Grand Cru,

Goes long on raspberry and loganberry fruits, touches of floral aromatics, this has a brightness to it, and attractive acidity and spice, more austere than in many vintages of Monbousquet, with less weight thorugh the mid palate, which is a plus for me in a wine I often find too heavy. 50% new oak. Last year for technical director Raphael Maurin (who was only here for two vintages), now Laurent Lussau in charge, harvest 29 September to October 6, small yield of 18.55hl/h.

The 2021 Monbousquet is a blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, aging in 50% new oak. Deep garnet-purple in color, it leaps from the glass with vibrant black raspberries, wild strawberry, and boysenberries scents, plus hints of licorice, forest floor, and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, the palate is elegant and chewy with just enough fruit and a lively finish. They had frost here and had to drop the fruit from the secondary buds, so yields are low at 18.55 hl/ha. pH 3.67.

The 2021 Monbousquet has a dense, oaky nose, quite backward with underlying floral scents—a touch of violet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, still demonstrating the hardness and obduracy I picked up upon at en primeur. Touches of mocha show on the finish. This is a rather unyielding Saint-Émilion, and the question is whether there is sufficient fruit to support it when the tannins eventually soften.