Château Pavie, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2021
We've noticed a gradual dialling down at Gerard Perse's flagship estate. The terroir here has never been in dispute; Pavie occupies one of the most outstanding terroirs in Bordeaux, however, the winemaking has proved divisive. While Mr Parker is clearly a fan, many European palates have found the wines challenging. The 2021 is still a big, virile wine, but there is much greater poise and a seam of energy that binds it together. It is certainly much more to our tastes. Opening with an attractive bouquet of purple spiced fruit, incense and truffle it leads to a core of earthy fruit and salty chocolate, which is less dense than usual, but is still a big hearty wine. Lots of structure and energy here. It isn't the finest wine of the vintage, but it feels like a move in the right direction. If this knits together in bottle, as most vintages do, this should evolve into a refined example of Pavie.
critic reviews
The 2021 Pavie has a deep garnet-purple color. It is very closed to start, needing a lot of coaxing and swirling to reveal notes of fresh black plums, black raspberries, and wild blueberries, plus underlying hints of lilacs, crushed rocks, forest floor, and jasmine tea. The medium-bodied palate is taut and tense, with latent, energetic notes of red, black, and blue berries intertwined with mineral and floral notes, supported by firm, fine-grained tannins and beautiful freshness, finishing long and perfumed. So, so pretty!
The 2021 Pavie takes time to cohere in the glass, eventually offering blackberry and blueberry fruit, with graphite emanating from the Cabernet components. Hints of mint chocolate and cassis come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. This is a well-balanced Saint-Émilion, and I appreciate the blend of varieties and the contribution of the Cabernets. Spicier than recent vintages, there is a healthy drop of black pepper here, gentle grip and a sapid finish. It doesn't possess the complexity of the very top vintages, though given a few years in bottle it should drink well for 20 years.
Successful, with concentration and power managing a full extraction without bitter edges. Enjoyable cassis, blackberry, with fresher acidities coming through in mandarin peel and white peach. 75% new oak, full on Pavie signature, with plenty of oak caressing, but overall excellent quality. Harvest September 28 to October 12. No chaptilisation, the powerful south-facing slopes coming in extremely handy in 2021.