
Château Pontet Canet, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2022
Justine explained that they sprayed a kaolin clay solution over the wines to protect the grapes from sunburn. Strange aromas of clay and earth initially, followed by some primary fruit and floral notes. The palate is more Pauillac in profile with a huge well of jammy blackcurrant and gravelly cassis. The mid-palate feels quite sophisticated and refined, albeit in a big dark style. Whilst the tannins are dialled down compared with recent years, they are still rather firm and need to resolve during élevage. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot.
critic reviews
The blend is 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 4% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and the élevage was very typical, with 50% new oak, 35% tiny amphorae and 15% used oak. The yield was “not that high” but as usual the team here keep this figure close to their chest. Of note they lost a little Petit Verdot to frost on April 4th, early in the season, and dehydration was the main driver pushing down yields. A nose of delicately confit dark fruits, on the edge for me but not going too far, concentrated blackcurrant and blackberry with olive and slate nuances. A surprisingly bold character appears at the start of the palate, the fruit here sitting within a shell of structure, a polished and crisp outer surface, with a slowly building inner core of berry and damson fruits, with touches of cherry liqueur, all set within a charming texture which comes out on a second taste, with savoury edges to the fruit, tar and slate and olive and liquorice, with a core of ripe, finely knit tannins. This feels cohesive and concentrated, conveying the character of the vintage with honesty, but holding on to a sense of freshness as well. Beautifully handled tannins at the very end, and a correct, structured finish. A wine of great harmony here, but on the edge in terms of fruit profile and alcohol, which comes in at 14.8%, with 14.5% on the label.
Deep plum colour, iodine on the nose, this is gorgeously nuanced, does not give the impression of an extremely hot dry vintage, and retains energy. Perhaps not quite the depth through the mid palate of the very best vintages of Pontet, but packed with graphite, crushed raspberry, griotte cherry, black chocolate, crayon. Bright lift through the palate, along with high spice, and muscular tannnins. Shorter than average ageing, finishing in cement vats for five months. A single point upscore. First year with lighter bottle.
The 2022 Pontet Canet, raised in 35% amphora, changes remarkably over 10 minutes of aeration. Initially quite pungent and almost off-putting, it then coheres nicely, manifesting classic Pauillac scents of graphite and cedar, with less eucalyptus than the 2020 poured alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and vibrant. It's slightly grainy in texture, with a little chalkiness developing toward a sapid, Japanese nori-tinged finish. This is a very promising Pontet Canet.
product details
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