L'If, St Emilion,

Cyrille Thienpont is in charge here, and he has teased out attractive blueberry fruits, along with graphite, pencil lead and gunsmoke. Chalky tannins reflect the clay-limestone soils, this is full of pleasure, even while austerity is gripping the finish. Highest percentage of Cabernet Franc to date, after including recent plantings. 50% new oak. Harvest October 2 to 16.

The 2021 L'If is a blend of 79% Merlot, harvested on 2, 6, 12 and 13 October, and 21% Cabernet Franc, harvested on 16 October. Deep garnet-purple in color, it springs with lively notions of fresh blackberries, redcurrants, and boysenberries, plus suggestions of lavender, cardamom, pencil shavings, and fallen leaves. Medium-bodied, the palate has a fine-grained texture and lively acidity supporting the intense black fruits, finishing with a red berry lift. pH 3.61.

The 2021 L'If was a winner out of barrel. In bottle? It blossoms in the glass with pure black cherry, iodine, wilted violet and oyster shell scents, gaining momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There is a fluidity in the L'If that I really like—very harmonious and poised, gradually building with gentle grip toward the finish and residual black pepper on the aftertaste. Excellent.