L'If, St Emilion, 2021
Jacques explained that this was a "garage" wine (like the old days…). Years of work in the vineyard replanting better genetics and planting at a higher density are almost completed, so attention has turned to the winery. At the time of our visit there was no roof, so it was back to basics for the 2021 vinifications, but you wouldn't know it! Produced from 79% Merlot and 21% Cabernet Franc from five hectares next to Troplong Mondot and two smaller plots near Lassegue and Étienne-de-Lisse (all farmed organically), the L'If is initially more extrovert than Le Pin with notes of black mineral infused fruit, licorice, cassis and truffles. Texturally this is very smart with layers of seamless, taut dark fruit. One feels the limestone influence - there's a minerality and brightness that one associates with the Cote of St Emilion. The fruit is framed by velvety tannins and a refreshing spine of acidity.
critic reviews
A blend of 79% Merlot and 21% Cabernet Franc, L’If 2021 is deep garnet-purple in color. It shoots from the glass with vibrant notes of fresh blueberries and redcurrants, leading to nuances of lilacs, licorice, and iron ore. The medium-bodied palate delivers exciting tension and wonderfully fine-grained tannins, with bright black and red berry flavors and a zippy finish.
The 2021 L'If was a winner out of barrel. In bottle? It blossoms in the glass with pure black cherry, iodine, wilted violet and oyster shell scents, gaining momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There is a fluidity in the L'If that I really like—very harmonious and poised, gradually building with gentle grip toward the finish and residual black pepper on the aftertaste. Excellent.
Cyrille Thienpont is in charge here, and he has teased out attractive blueberry fruits, along with graphite, pencil lead and gunsmoke. Chalky tannins reflect the clay-limestone soils, this is full of pleasure, even while austerity is gripping the finish. Highest percentage of Cabernet Franc to date, after including recent plantings. 50% new oak. Harvest October 2 to 16.
A blend of 79% Merlot and 21% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 L'If shows considerable potential, and if it evolves as well as I suspect it will during elevage, it may make my score seem conservative. Offering up aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with loamy soil, black truffles and sweet forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless, with velvety tannins and a bright spine of acidity, concluding with a long, saline finish.