Gevrey Chambertin, Clos St Jacques, 1er Cru,

Good medium red. Musky, evolved bouquet of chocolate, spices and porcini. Supple, spicy and sweet but fully evolved, with the mushroom and chocolate qualities carrying through on the palate. In a fairly simple, slightly pinched style, and past its fruit stage. Bruno Clair described 2001 as a tough year for us, with a difficult flowering and a bad July. We didn't have problems with cleanliness of the fruit but there was a wide range of ripeness within the same bunches ever since the flowering. (Clair also showed me his Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers, and that wine was a bit funkier on the nose, with its acidity taking over the palate; it was in decline.)