Meursault, Les Charmes, Dessus, 1er Cru, 2017

This has ample weight and texture to it, as you would hope and expect, though it is less expressive and more taut and tightly wound than the rest of the Meursaults in the range, with beurre noisette, toasted brown rice and Sicilian lemon rind flavours that slowly unravel on the finish. This is going to need a couple of years to relax into itself. From four specific parcels vinified separately high up in the Charmes Dessus vineyard, just below Clos des Perrières and abutting the vines of Dominque Lafon, this represents a clear step up from the straight Charmes and is one of the estate's flagship wines. Aged in 30% new oak.