2021 Clos de la Commaraine, tasted in its constituent parts (just as you do at Clos des Lambrays) is a wine of polished grace and depth. Clearly a wine of many layers, with a length and dimension more akin to a Grand Cru than anything else, the various plots offer up a fascinating picture of the diversity found in the vineyard. Myriad fruits, more red than black but not without some brambly notes, flowers, fine spice, sleek minerals and touches of tobacco are just some of the flavours that appear in the various plots. Overall the tannins felt chiselled yet fine, some plots ultra-elegant, others, often the lower sections giving a hint of the natural power of the Pommard appellation. Across the cellar the fruit was vivid in its presentation, polished in structure, with seamlessly integrated acidity adding to the crystalline nature of the fruit. The final blend is a thrilling prospect, and looks set to be one of the most sophisticated and seductive Pommards being produced today. The appellation’s star is truly in the ascendant, with Clos de la Commaraine leading the charge.