2021 Clos de la Commaraine, tasted in its constituent parts (just as you do at Clos des Lambrays) is a wine of polished grace and depth. Clearly a wine of many layers, with a length and dimension more akin to a Grand Cru than anything else, the various plots offer up a fascinating picture of the diversity found in the vineyard. Myriad fruits, more red than black but not without some brambly notes, flowers, fine spice, sleek minerals and touches of tobacco are just some of the flavours that appear in the various plots. Overall the tannins felt chiselled yet fine, some plots ultra-elegant, others, often the lower sections giving a hint of the natural power of the Pommard appellation. Across the cellar the fruit was vivid in its presentation, polished in structure, with seamlessly integrated acidity adding to the crystalline nature of the fruit. The final blend is a thrilling prospect, and looks set to be one of the most sophisticated and seductive Pommards being produced today. The appellation’s star is truly in the ascendant, with Clos de la Commaraine leading the charge.
This is a very exciting new find for us indeed. The Clos de la Commaraine, a fine 3.75ha Premier Cru Monopole in Pommard has long been something of a sleeping giant. Originally classed in Lavalle's 1855 classification as a Première Cuvée, the potential of this vineyard has always been well known. Initially owned by the Jaboulet-Vercherre family, during which time it was made and marketed by Louis Jadot, it was bought in 2017 by Harvard Professor, Denise Dupré, and Mark Nunelly, former Managing Director of a Boston Capital investment fund, with the ambition to restore the wine to its former glory and make it one of the great Premiers Crus of the Côte de Beaune. The first, and most crucial, step they made was to sign up Louis-Michel Liger-Belair to control production. Louis-Michel has a free hand to make the wine as he sees fit, starting in the vineyard, which will be fully converted to biodynamics. The first vintage under his control was 2018 - a thrilling debut vintage and an exciting new chapter for the estate.