Volnay, Les Mitans, 1er Cru, 2023

Lightly smoky with darker fruits and a cool stony intensity. There's a structure and tension to this, a tight-knit intensity that gives it the impression of being coiled, sprung-loaded. Full of dark cherry and mineral vitality but density and drive. Entirely whole bunch this year. De Montille's vines in Mitans are 55-60 years old; they produce tiny (millerande) berries every year that are highly concentrated. The vineyard's soils are light and shallow with a strong limestone content. The grapes and bunches ripen very well most years so this often is fermented with a lot of whole bunches.