critic reviews
Perhaps the finest white Burgundy produced in 2003, Dominique Lafons Montrachet, would be a show-stopper in even the greatest vintages. I couldnt believe it, nothing affected those vines, and the yields were identical as in 2002 (30 hectoliters per hectare). Sweet minerals ensconced in a myriad of spices are intermingled with poached pears in the aromatics of this majestic, exceptional wine. This liquid satin of a wine slithers onto the palate, expands, and unleashes waves of roasted minerals, sage, bacon, spices, pears, and buttered toast. Medium-bodied and noble, it displays an unreal finish that lingers for a minute offering additional flavors of creamed hazelnuts, hints of sweet limes, and spiced apples. It is a tour de force of terroir and winemaking! Projected maturity: 2007-2018. Importers: Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 625-2505, Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; and Beaune Imports, Berkeley Ca; tel. (510) 841-9815
(from a normal crop level of about 32 hectoliters per hectare) Complex aromas of minerals, wet stone, menthol and smoked meat. Fat, lush and silky, with terrific thickness of texture but also noteworthy verve. Very rich, deep flavors of pineapple, minerals and spices. Broadens out impressively toward the back, and finishes with explosive length. One of the richest and longest 2003s I tasted this spring.
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