Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2017
Intense and concentrated. Less plush than the Combettes, more discrete, but smart and haunting nonetheless. There is a really focused richness here, nuanced notes of flowers and citrus and fruit blossom honey with a little gentle crunch, too. Layered, long, poised and classy. Breathtaking. A most Puligny-like Grand Cru. This is the Domaine’s oldest vineyard, planted in 1940 and its smallest production.
critic reviews
(there are just two-and-a-half barrels of this juice, none of them new): Bright pale yellow. Rich, ripe peach aroma with a buttery nuance. Then dry and laid-back on the palate; in a rather powerful style but youthfully tight, showing no easy oaky sweetness. More minerally than the Combettes but displaying less stuffing and creaminess than that wine (I might have identified this wine blind as a Pucelles). This fairly large-scaled wine finishes with a peach pit cyanic dryness and very good length.