Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru, 2019
Reticent and brooding to begin with. Savoury notes of cedar and pine overlay a deep palate offering flavours of hedgerow fruit, creme de mure, sweet spice, earth and minerals. This is firmer and less immediately seductive than the Amoureuses, it may take a little bit of coaxing out of the glass, but patience is well-rewarded. The tannins are velvety and not obtrusive, providing solid foundations to the complex spice and mineral-licked fruit. There is a great sense of coiled potential here, over and above the surly exterior. The finish continually expands and the wine gradually relaxes into itself with air. Exquisitely-proportioned and handsome, this feels set for a very long life indeed. Very much a Chambolle style Bonnes Mares. From 80-year-old vines aged in a maximum of 20% new oak. All whole-bunch fermented.
critic reviews
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and is made entirely with whole bunches. This has a very well-defined, quite floral nose with violet-infused red and blue fruit, fine delineation and poise. This is understated compared to previous vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite citric and edgy with blood orange and a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. This gains weight with aeration that emphasizes more its blue fruit character. Very long in terms of aftertaste, this should age with style.