Dom Pérignon, P2, 1998

Fresh brioche, butter, a touch of cream moving deftly to hazelnut and lime juice; there is almost something Riesling about these flavours. The core of this is very pure and straight, with a wonderfully airy citrus and nut character. Definitely on the riper side of vintages, but this is not big. A very fine mousse, very clear vinous flavours, there's a dose of sunshine alongside creamy yellow fruit flavours, pineapple, mango and star fruit. Rich but lively and vibrant. Excellent mid palate fruit. An exotic quality, more yellow fruit than orange or grey. But not heavy, in fact this is glorious. So much flavour here, held in a very precise place by a plumb-line of minerality.