Clos des Goisses, Brut
    Philipponnat

    Clos des Goisses, Brut,

    Destination

    Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Brut, 1997

    Justerini & Brooks Tasting note
    Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses, Brut, 1997

    Clos des Goisses is a legendary vineyard that has been in the Philipponnat family for almost a century. It is often cited as the original truly great single vineyard Champagne – the one that first proved that Champagne greatness could be achieved without recourse to blending. A fully walled 5.5 hectare vineyard for which the term ‘micro-climate’ could not be more apt, it looms over the Marne river with slopes reaching a vertiginous 45 degrees, surely some of the steepest in all Champagne. The resulting grapes are boosted by the warming effects of the river and the steep, fully south facing slopes, two factors which combined to produce mean vineyard temperatures 1.5-2° higher than rest of Champagne. In the cellar vinification is done primarily in oak barrels without malolactic fermentation, the better to support the naturally powerful nature of the terroir. Ageing sur lie runs to about 10 years, depending on the vintage, and dosage is once again low at around 4g/l. The resultant wines, which tend to amount to around half of the potential production of the vineyard, are magnificent expressions of regal power and animating minerality – in many respects a fine wine before a fine champagne, and a true reflection of the uniqueness of the Goisses terroir.

    ABV:
    12.5%
    94/100
    Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux
    Pale oyster shell and lemon colour, delicate shortbread biscuit and elderflower notes on the opening beats. A lovely sense of weight and expression, everything poised and with a sense of being driven forward by the fresh acidities. As things open, you get quince, raspberry pips, fleshy white pear, and a cloud of white blossom and violet flowers. Overall a sense that it grows in power and length, and this is a gorgeous Champagne with its distinctive and powerful house style. Dosage 4.5g (this is always the case with Philipponnat). 60% aged in Burgundy barrels, 40% in stainless steel tanks, no malo. A small yield after a cold winter and spring, then cool weather at flowering made for a small yield, with just 13,000 bottles (around half the most generous years). No malo, 3.08ph. Racking once, only at the time of blending. Blended and bottled May 2013, disgorged April 2021
    Date Reviewed:
    10/2021
    Drinking Window:
    2021 - 2035
    97/100
    Antonio Galloni, Vinous
    The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. (Originally published in May 2021)
    Date Reviewed:
    11/2021
    Drinking Window:
    2024 - 2047

    specifications

    country:
    France
    region:
    Champagne
    Appellation:
    Producer:
    Philipponnat
    Grape Variety:
    Allergen Information:
    This product may contain sulphites. Full allergen information is available upon request, please call our Customer Relations Team on +44 (0)20 7484 6430.