Anjou Blanc Sec
Thibaud Boudignon

Anjou Blanc Sec,



Thibaud Boudignon, Anjou Blanc Sec, 2017

Justerini & Brooks Tasting note
Thibaud Boudignon, Anjou Blanc Sec, 2017

Crisp and racy with lemon zest and grapefruit aromas over fine stones, the feintest touch of honey, and a touch of complex sur lie/fresh baguette below. Admirably pure and tonic with chiselled features and a real clack clack to its structure – just the refreshment to wash down a plate of hard cheese or some delicate white river fish.



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Thibaud Boudignon

Thibaud Boudignon

Back in 2011 we got wind of a young wine grower doing very interesting things in Anjou and Savennières. His name came to us via a diverse range of contacts, all of whom happened to work at stellar domaines. Originally from Bordeaux, Thibaud spent time working at Château Olivier, before honing his skills at Philippe Charlopin in the Côte de Nuits. Buying land in Anjou, renting one vineyard in Savennières, he built his reputation around the world with a string of steely releases, and is now held up as one of the most sought-after producers in the whole of the Loire. If ever a man could be said to be doing to Anjou what Didier Dagueneau did for Sauvignon Blanc, Thibaud is that man. His original Savennières, Les Fougerais, is no longer, and in its stead come three, soon to be four, single vineyard cuvees that are set to secure Thibaud’s place as the leading light in this historic appellation too. From these historically significant vineyards Thibaud is now crafting strikingly individual wines; Chenin Blancs of rare clarity and incision. Clos de Fremine, planted just below the winery in Poisonnière produces the most floral, delicate, aromatic cuvee, though one with a subtle and surprising line of steel running through it. Vignes Cendreés comes from the village of Savennières itself where the greater clay content in the soils produces the most Burgundian wine in the line-up, muscled Chenin with a plump midriff of fruit around intense acidity and concentrated minerality. In Clos de la Hutte, Thibaud has set about bringing one of the region’s finest vineyards back to prominence, a vineyard on a par with Coulee de Sérrant and Roche aux Moines. Sitting on pure schist, planted to a diverse selection of different Chenin Blanc clones, it offers huge complexity and power but also remarkable finesse and harmony. It is, “The tiger that stokes” as Thibaud puts it, and with a yield of just 1000 bottles, it is a rare beast indeed. A new cellar, built in 2016, adjacent to Clos de la Hutte, has given Thibaud a whole new level of precision to his winemaking. Ageing takes place in a mixture of 350, 600 and 1200lt barrels, with less and less new oak being employed across the range. The results are thrilling, age-worthy Chenin Blancs beloved by sommeliers around the world; at the last count Thibaud Boudignon wines were found on no less than 19 of France’s three Michelin restaurants….

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