Cairanne, Haut Coustias, 2021

Mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre and a hint of Syrah. The estate’s top cuvée, a blend of old, high parcels planted on clay soils with limestone. Curt blue and red fruits, nicely measured and not light either, the 2021 has a gripping detail packed with small blueberries, earth, stones and salt. Haut Coustias always seems to convey a real sense of soil. Aged in a combination of concrete and large foudre. This gets a little longer in barrel than the rest of the wines, and you can see why – it is full of intense, complex, structured fruit.