Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Kabinett, VDP Auction Release 2019, 2018
A truly stunning Kabinett and living proof that, if treated sensitively and selected properly, the humble Kabinett can be every bit as majestic, stylish and finessed as it can be joyful, light and refreshing. The JS 2018 auction bottling is all light and sunshine, with beautiful white peach, crystalline apples and just-ripe greengages. Subtle notes of papaya and mint leaf add to the complexity, finishing on violet, jasmine and noble blue slate sensations. Wonderful. Just 450 bottles were released.
critic reviews
After a year’s absence, there is again a Fritz Haag Kabinett from the Juffer-Sonnenuhr, and this time the wine was sold at auction. It represents essentially the outer, less-ripe clusters from the same largely ungrafted vines in the Falkenberg sector that informed this year’s auctioned Spätlese (as they have most of its recent predecessors). White peach and quince are mingled with fresh lime on a nose that anticipates the lusciousness revealed on a subtly creamy yet animatingly juicy palate. A hint of almond paste pulls in a confectionary direction and bergamot lends a countervailing, coolingly herbal note. The finish, while undeniably sweet, is ravishingly persistent, soaringly buoyant, and not forgetful of its duty to refresh.