critic reviews
This comes off as even brighter and more rapier in penetration than the corresponding Brauneberger Juffer, so it’s amazing to contemplate that measurable total acidity here is barely above seven grams. Granted, there is no doubt a psychological effect from the dominance of citrus fruit character typical for this site. Lemon and grapefruit pungently and piquantly marked by their peels and seeds share aromatic billing with scents of sea breeze and a Chenin-like, reductive whiff of snuffed candle wick. The palate is firm, with just a hint of white peach pointing in the direction of a more luscious fruit character that may or may not emerge explicitly with time in bottle. The finish, as already intimated, is formidably sustained and brightly penetrating, benefiting from mouthwatering marine minerality. This is one for fans of austerity and athletic leanness in dry Riesling, and even they would probably do well to wait another year before pulling a second cork.