Lieser Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs,

Scents of lime, cassis and walnut oil usher in a firm but polished palate featuring invigorating tartness of juicy citrus, apple, white peach and seedy, thick-skinned dark berries. The impressively sustained finish perpetuates this wine’s brightness (surprising, considering its analytically very modest acidity) for invigoration and consummate refreshment. It further benefits from piquant, smoky nut oils, underlying wet stone, saliva-liberating salinity and a cooling sense of green herbal infusion. Here is the closest (two weeks after mid-July bottling) that any of the formidable 2016 Schloss Lieser Grosse Gewächse comes to lusciousness of fruit. But nobody could claim that it stints on mineral elements or lacks structural rectitude.