Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Auslese,

This sole Auslese bottling of the present Zilliken collection is dominated by white peach, quince, grapefruit and lime. Like several of its siblings, it is marked by both animatingly bright citricity and creaminess of texture – though here, at least in the wine’s youthful state, the two are a bit at odds with each other. Glycerol conveys an oily feel here as well, and the citrus elements turn zesty and candied in the finish, yet all without sacrificing primary juiciness. “We had as good as no botrytis,” noted Zilliken. “We’re talking here principally about perfectly healthy grapes that were lightly desiccated.” A half-bottle with a bit left in it that had been open for two months came amazingly close in quality to freshly opened one. “I’ve been following this open bottle with some surprise myself,” observed Zilliken, adding by way of explanation that there hasn’t been any point in serving the rest of it since the wine was immediately sold out and he doesn’t want to frustrate his clientele. Here’s a bottling with which one should be patient, though I seriously doubt that it will ever deliver quite the complexity or superb balance exhibited by its two Spätlese siblings.