Mineral, Riesling, Trocken, 2017
Far more mineral than Lenz, with complex, open slate and smoke aromas surrounding layers of pithy, salty fruit – borne across the palate by an invisible freshness. Utter silk and charm in a beautifully dry package.
critic reviews
The 2017 Riesling Trocken Mineral is intense and elegant yet still reductive on the creamy and yeasty nose. Round and creamy on the palate, this is a fine, very classic Nahe Riesling with great mineral expression and lingering, highly stimulating salinity. A gorgeous wine. Tasted in June 2019.
As usual, this bottling – which in the present instance leans heavily on young vines not only in Halenberg but in Auf der Lay as well – not only lives up to its name but also offers excellent price-quality rapport. Penetrating, high-toned aromas of red raspberry, lime and white peach are mingled with struck flint and marine breeze anticipations of the reductive tension, stone suffusion, and mouthwatering salinity that follow on an infectiously juicy, satiny palate. And like its “basic” (intro-level) counterpart, this bottling boasts a striking sense of meatiness, not just clam-like in its mingling with mineral elements but also savory in a manner reminiscent of chicken stock, thereby reinforcing a resemblance to Chablis. The bell-clear finish vibrates and tugs at the salivary glands even as it delivers consummate refreshment.