Dalsheim Hubacker, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2008
A very different wine to Keller's other Grosse Gewachs, a later-ripener producing more brooding, conservative wines that blossom with age. This is a little sterner and more earthy in character than the kirchspiel 2008 but boasts great balance, complexity and power, notes of salts and spices, intense citrus rind and red apple fruit, touches of dry stone and greengage, broad-shouldered and very impressive, this will need a few years bottle age to show at its best.
critic reviews
The Keller 2008 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs smells exotically floral like a walk through a tropical greenhouse as well as of ripe peach, raw almond, and citrus. With almost dramatic purity of fruit and transparency to floral and saline, chalky, and crystalline mineral nuances, this sacrifices a bit of the richness and low tones of the Kirchspiel for the sake of delicacy. Almond cream and spirit-like inner-mouth aromatic suggestions essence of cherry, white peach, and apricot, with subtly cyanic suggestions of their pits add allure. This site reveals the strongest difference in character from 2007 when its exemplification had strikingly tactile presence and grip yet both vintages share inscrutable mineral mystery and the promise of enormous fascination as they evolve over the next decade or more. Two thousand eight is my vintage, proclaimed a delighted Klaus-Peter Keller, by which he meant a vintage designed to enhance the virtues of finesse, interplay Spiel, and elegance of which he has become an increasingly vocal partisan in recent years. The extra measure of refinement, flavor-delineation, and transparency as well as consistently lower alcohol that Keller is lately achieving in his dry Rieslings clearly point toward his enormous respect for the wines of Donnhoff and Schonleber on the Nahe, just as his Pinots whose quality would shock most French or American tasters into a sudden recognition of Germanys red wine potential owe much to the inspiration of Chambolles Frederic Mugnier. (Keller regularly visits Burgundy to taste, study, and trade wines with growers. For more about his recent Pinots, see my report in issue 185.) When it comes to sweet wines where he sets sights by the low-alcohol, feather-light, and uncannily-balanced results at Prum and Schaefer; Muller and Zilliken Keller is certainly out of step with most of his neighbors and VDP Rhine compatriots, and in my experience has further to travel to reach his ideal. Whether his sites rather than he are a limitation in that genre they could certainly not be much more different than steep, slate slopes remains to be seen. But judging by the unfortunately few from among the latest crop of sweet wines that I tasted, these appear to represent a steady advance in quality similar to that perceived in the latest dry Rieslings and Pinots. (I also did not get to the estates non-Riesling whites this year.) Keller is not one to rest on received opinion, even when it comes to the widespread reverence among top-notch Riesling vintners for low yields and rigorous selection for maximally homogeneous grapes. Its meant well, he insists, but in my opinion can easily lead to wines that are too powerful, too concentrated, too one-dimensional, and no longer authentic: little Riesling monsters so hefty that they can no longer walk under their own steam. There is no need to worry about the agility with which Kellers wines walk his talk! Indeed, dance is the ideal word for what the best of these 2008s do on your palate. When you tasted the grapes, remarks Keller by way of explaining his harvest approach, you realized that you just had to wait. By mid-November, you had a completely different set of aromas and flavors than before. Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463, and Frances Rose Imports Inc., Huntley, IL; tel. (815) 382-9533
Elegant aromas of white peach, pine nuts and lime. An invigorating nectarine flavor animates the palate, which features a crisp structure and impressive density without weight. Salty minerality provides charm and extends the finish. This is the most feminine of the estate's dry rieslings and one of the most approachable in its youth.