Hubacker, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2016
More introvert and broodingly mineral/chalky, there's amazing purity here, with chalk and a fine citrus zest character threaded around a powerful but filigree structure. Wet stones, complex mineral notes, tightly wound and intense. As usual, this will take some time to unfurl, but an impeccable balance is already clear to see. Aristocratic.
critic reviews
Quarry dust, bruised apple skin, zesty fresh lemon and flowering rosemary penetrate the nostrils. Stony, alkaline components on the firm palate are rather hard-edged, but there is a compensatory abundance of bright lemon and apple juiciness as well as a mouthwatering suffusion of mineral salts. The finish is strikingly penetrating and persistent, featuring lemon peel, rosemary, salt and stone. This is a Keller Hubacker of unusual animation and transparency. I’ll be very surprised if it does not significantly outlive its 2015 counterpart, not to mention prove consistently more fun to drink.