Riesling, Trocken, Von der Fels, 2018

Name: Riesling, Trocken, Von der Fels
Brand: Weingut Keller
Price: 459.88 GBP

Available Vintages

all 2018

justerini & brooks tasting note

Lime, mint and chamomile on the nose. Brine and lime and salted peaches on the palate – there’s fabulous tension and zip here, particularly for an entry level wine, though of course the Keller cellar beats to no ordinary drum. But still, for all the nerve and intensity, there is no sign of austerity or under ripeness, just long crystalline fruit from excellent genetic material. The blend for Von der Fells now includes 50% Kirschspiel, 25% Abts E, and 25% Morsetein and Hubacker. Illustrious parentage indeed.

critic reviews

93/100David Schildknecht,Vinous

In keeping with Keller’s conviction that in 2018 success and exhibition of terroir character were strongly correlated with vine age, this year’s “Von der Fels” is based strictly on old vines in the estate’s Grosses Gewächs vineyards, with the cuvée weighted heavily toward Kirchspiel. A penetratingly high-toned nose incorporates basil, mint and wintergreen, lemon and grapefruit zests, as well as oily and chalky notes, for an aromatic profile that makes me think “Scheurebe meets Chablis.” The polished palate features sappy, invigoratingly tangy and piquant citrus and herb presence, now including a bite of peppercorn and a tart edge of crab apple. The finish is mouth-shaking in its vibratory persistence as well as cooling, ultra-refreshing and mouthwateringly saline. At 12% alcohol, an admirable sense of lift complements this bottling’s infectious juiciness and remarkable sense of animation. I have to believe that when it comes to ageability, this will rival some of Keller’s Grosse Gewächse.

DRINKING WINDOW 2020 - 2030

date of review 11/2020