Barolo, Cannubi, 2017
A small parcel from which only 300 cases are produced. This is what the Scavinos call “Cannubi Cannubi”. (Their parcel is at the very heart of the Cannubi vineyard at the top of the hill where the mother rock is close to the surface. Soils are blue marne, limestone and sand. Shallow and rocky with a south-east exposure situated at 290 metres above sea level, this terroir makes for a wine combining silky fruit and powerful structure.) The first vintage Scavino bottled was 1985, the vines were planted in 1946 with the low-yielding, darker fruit Nebbiolo michet clone. Cannubi is one of the historic crus of Barolo, in fact such was the fame of the vineyard in the past that wines here were sold as “Cannubio” before Barolo as a defined vineyard region even existed.
critic reviews
Sadly after this vintage, we only have one more. This Cannubi will no longer be produced after 2018. Enjoying it while we can, the Paolo Scavino 2017 Barolo Cannubi is fragrant and rich, showing a gorgeous level of aromatic purity and intensity that could not have been easy to achieve in the very hot vintage. Tones of wild cherry, blackberry, spice and sweet earth rise from the bouquet with prominence. This is a lovely wine that defies most everything we know about 2017.
The 2017 Barolo Cannubi is bright, effusive and punchy. It is also quite nervous at this stage. That won’t be an issue in a few years’ time, but readers should be prepared to be patient. Dark cherry, lavender, mint, cinnamon and star anise add lovely aromatic presence to this classy, mid-weight Barolo.