Barbaresco, Crichet Paje, 2012

Luca, cheerful but humbly matter of fact, told us he was “very happy with 2012, particularly because the alcohols are all below 14% yet the wines are very intense.” Such levels are low and quite rare by modern Piedmont standards yet the wines do not lack for anything and are so well-balanced. Despite the end of season heatwave the 2012s are less “solaire” and opulent than the seductive 2011s. Initially reserved and coiled but given air and time they are arguably even more alluring than their predecessors. A small vintage, up to 30% less than the previous year’s crop, but an absolute classic in the making.

2012 was a similarly hot vintage, but with much greater impact on quantities. Luca and his father Alfredo selected the freshest, healthiest bunches in Crichet Paje with more fervour than ever before. The removal of any imperfect or sunburnt grapes reduced yields dramatically, which are 50% down on 2011; a sign of the heavy price Luca is prepared to pay in order to produce wine of the very best quality. Svelte, deep and mouth-coating the Crichet Paje offers all of the spice, perfume and deep minerality we have come to expect from this cuvee, imbued, in 2012, with a particularly glowing, silky and sunny red fruit character.