Hoe-Steen, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, 2021
More concentrated and intense than the Rondevlei, Hoe-Steen this year is a wine of sinew and bristling, crisp golden fruit going into nut kernels and salts with good levels of invigorating acidity. David opted for an early picked style in 2023 and it works! Very smart and polished with real cut. With 2021, this is probably the most incisive Hoe-Steen to date. The Chenin that arguably made their name, Hoë-Steen (meaning High-Chenin) is an old vineyard planted in 1968 just west of Malmesbury towards Darling. The soils are a deep, red iron clay. South facing, it is late ripening and benefits from constant winds which have contributed to the gnarly shape of the vines. Old Vine Project certified. 2,000bts produced.
critic reviews
Soft, focused and citrus-driven, the 2021 Hoe-Steen Chenin Blanc offers aromas of yellow cherry skin, lemon rind and dusty white flowers on the nose. Light to medium-bodied, the Chenin compresses on the palate to show a delightful, food-friendly texture and ends with a bright mineral-laced finish. I think it will drink better in time, so be patient.
The 2021 Chenin Blanc Hoë-Steen comes from two hectares of vines planted by massale selection in 1968 on ferrous clay soils with 12 months in neutral oak. It has a well-defined bouquet with light resinous scents, soft touches of Provençal herbs in the background. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, a dab of orange rind and spice, focused with a texturally satisfying oily finish. Lovely.