Hoe-Steen, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, 2024
Hoe-Steen in Afrikaans translates as “High Chenin” – a reference to the gnarly old vines that have been wind-battered in this site and appear to be lurching out of the earth! Planted in 1968, this vineyard is planted with an old clone of Chenin which gives bigger berries. The 2024 is a sweeter fruited, fuller bodied and more powerful expression than the norm, offering golden fruits, apples and herbs with a slight bitter twist adding interest. Hoe-Steen is an iron-rich red clay site planted in 1968 on the western side of Malmesbury. The extreme wind during flowering clipped yields and has resulted in the smallest bottling ever, just 700L, equivalent to exactly 999 bottles.
critic reviews
The David & Nadia 2024 Swartland Hoe-Steen Chenin Blanc, translated as high stone, comes from a wind-exposed Paardeberg vineyard planted in 1968, producing just 900 bottles in this vintage. Grown on iron-rich red soils and planted to a large-bunch clone, the site ripens up to four weeks later than the estate's other parcels. South-facing exposure and flowering challenges limit yields, resulting in a wine shaped more by texture than overt perfumes. Yellow fruit and density are balanced by structure and depth. The vineyards elevation and exposure to persistent Cape winds contribute to its slow, steady ripening that adds beautiful intensity and unique length. It will be fascinating to see how this wine fleshes out with more time in bottle.
The 2024 Chenin Blanc Hoë-Steen comes from vines on iron-rich clay that tend to ripen at the end of February. Wind reduced volumes to 900 bottles due to interrupted fruit set. It has a lightly spiced, peppermint-tinged bouquet that opens gradually in the glass, yellow rather than white fruit. The palate has respectable weight, a keen line of acidity, perhaps just does not quite have the complexity of the Langland on the finish. But still, this will give a decade of drinking pleasure.