Cartology, 2022
Cartology is a wine based on heritage vineyards from across the Western Cape, averaging 40-50 years old, on a real mix of soil types and expositions. Spontaneous fermentation with all the lees is carried out in a variety of vessels and formats, the final blend arriving at 92% Chenin Blanc and 8% Semillon. A ripe intermingling of citrus oils, tea, white honey and flowers, the 2022 is tactile, with a fine grip and long stony, herb-inflected finish. Sourcing areas include Skurfberg, Malmesbury, Paardeberg, Bottelary, Upper Blaauwklippen, False Bay and Tygerberg. The Sémillon comes from the La Colline vineyard in Franschhoek.
critic reviews
Mostly Chenin Blanc with 8% Semillon, the 2022 Cartology Bush Vines instantly impresses with fantastic balance and weight, offering succulent aromas of lemon, almonds and dusty citrus blossoms. Medium-bodied and with 13% alcohol, the palate is fresh, clean and mineral driven with a subtly spiced chassis before displaying a food-friendly finish that will benefit from another year in the bottle. Just over 27,000 bottles were produced after resting in a mix of cement eggs, old foudre and old barrels.
The 2022 Cartology is whole bunch pressed with no sulfur added until mid-winter with five months in tank on the fine lees. It has a very pure bouquet with yellow plum, egg whites and candle wax. This unfolds beautifully in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a lively opening, citrus-fresh with orange rind and lime. Alheit mentioned how difficult it was to obtain the acidity, but I think he achieved it here. Excellent, even if I don't consider it the best Cartology ever made.