Señorío de San Vicente, Rioja, 2010

2010 San Vicente Rioja is an absolute classic. As always it comes from a single vineyard called La Canoca, the highest in the San Vicente de la Sonsierra region, planted with a unique, low yielding, charismatic variety called Tempranillo Peludo (or Hairy Tempranillo, so called because of its hairy leaves). Aged for 22 months in all new barrels, 90% of which are French, the balance American, the Egurens describe it as Neo-Classical as it harks back to winemaking techniques in the 1920s and 1930s when French winemakers arrived in Rioja, bringing their winemaking styles with them. It is absolutely seamless, delivering layers of sweet graphite and earth-infused dark berry fruits, aromatic herbs and minerals. Intense and long and still very silky, with almost no weight; it is a brilliant wine that delivers a plethora of flavours, while remaining remarkably untouched by oak influence, such is the concentration of the wine. Stunning.