Silver Eagle Vineyard, Chardonnay,

Hailing from famed grower Ulysses Valdez’s home vineyard (where Aubert produces his UVSL CUVEE), this has a cool, mineral, savoury crushed rock and juniper note to it, with structure and grip dominating the palate in its youth. Sitting at 700 ft, facing west, planted to old Wente clones, this site invariably holds onto its acidity well and is always low yielding (hence the natural structure on display). This may not be the most refined of the range, but there’s no shortage of impact and interest here. Muscular and compelling.