Since its inauguration in 1981 this Rutherford icon has been the source of some of Napa’s best value, most traditionally made, terroir driven wines – qualities it continues to embody to this day. There’s no winemaking wizardry, no added gloss, instead the focus is firmly and squarely on the vineyards, rooted in the belief that healthy soils make for good grapes. John was a pioneer in so many ways, a full decade ahead of the curve when it came to organics and regenerative agriculture, a passionate believer in dry farming, and a great advocate for social equity for his vineyard workers. Having proved beyond doubt that the good way can be both financially sound, and result in better tasting fruit, he is today quite rightly seen as a figurehead of the increasingly popular movement towards true sustainability. Above all else, these are refreshing and delicious wines to drink. In the winery, new oak is kept to a minimum, extractions are gentle and alcohol levels are pleasingly moderate, rarely topping 13.5%, even in the Rutherford Cabernet. At a philosophical level, little has changed here since the first organic harvest back in 1988. The Rutherford Cabernet, the estate’s flagship wine, is a supremely confident yet restrained example full of Rutherford dust aromas and noble Cabernet fruit, yet it remains recognisably Napa with a core of velvet cloaked tannins and mocha notes. Vintages dating back to the late 80s are still drinking beautifully. The full range comprises a pungent and leafy tank aged Sauvignon Blanc; a fascinating and innovative Chardonnay from cool Carneros; a classic Zinfandel field blend that is a model of restraint and sophistication; and a suave, and rather gorgeous Merlot that proves why so many of the world’s great wines contain this much maligned variety. With a winery motto impossible not to love “Times fun when you’re having flies”, this family affair proves that the good route can also be a profitable one – and the results are some of Napa’s best value and most satisfying wines.