Porcupine Hill, Pinot Noir, 2022
Porcupine Hill comes from a specific block of high-density plantings within Bearwallow, on shale, sandstone and clay. In 2022, as so often, it offers a more intricate, complex and mineral expression of the site, with finely wrought red and dark berry fruit, with a very fine mineral flourish to finish. Intricate power and mineral spice combined, and a calm purity to the fruit. Really smart.
critic reviews
The 2022 Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill requires the taster to recalibrate the levels of tannin and structure that one can expect from a Pinot Noir. Instantly radiant and animated on the nose, this exudes a similar bright, energetic nature found across the range of 2022 Pinot Noirs, which can be misleading due to the unbelievably dense, focused, compacted and intense turn the palate takes. The payload of tannins here is simply breathtaking, yet they somehow steer clear of any semblance of astringency or harshness. The most overtly serious Pinot Noir in the lineup, this is nowhere near ready to drink but will be an entertaining and singular experience for easily two decades.
The 2022 Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill emerges from the modern, most densely-spaced, younger part of this site. It offers up an exotic mélange of bright red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper, orange peel and slate. Nervy and quite vibrant, the 2022 has more than enough fruit to fill out its frame. In 2022, the two Anderson Valley vineyard designates - which come from separate parts of the same site - are remarkably vivid and also very distinctive. Here, readers will find a wine shaped by tension and drive more than by volume.