We understand that many Justerini & Brooks customers are fully au fait with the intricacies of the Piedmont’s two principal wine regions; Barolo and Barbaresco, but for those less familiar, or perhaps just in need of a refresher, we provide here a summary of the key communes in both regions. When one considers the diversity of soil, elevation, aspect and micro-climate across the Langhe, even before the complexities of vine age, clonal variation, training methods and winemaking technique, it becomes ever-clearer that the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco comprise some of the most terroir-driven of any wine region in the world.
In the context of noteworthy single cru Barolo and Barbaresco, the likes of which are represented in our offer today, a little insight into the broad characteristics of each commune may help to narrow down a selection of wines that will appeal to your personal tastes. To the connoisseurs, we hope that a simple overview might tempt a move into new areas, or some lesser-known crus, in the pursuit of diverse and contemporary Barolo and Barbaresco collections.
For your convenience, we have also included a summary of the single crus we offer from each commune. While there are a total of eleven approved communes in the DOCG Barolo appellation, we have opted to focus only on the most prominent six. Not included are Roddi, Grinzane Cavour, Novello (home to Ravera – an increasingly famous single vineyard), Cherasco and Diano d’Alba. In Barbaresco we have opted not to include San Rocco Seno d'Elvio.
Barolo (Barolo)
The township of Barolo lends its name to the DOCG appellation, and functions both physically and metaphorically as the heart of the region. Located in the centre of the appellation, what it lacks in area under vine versus its neighbours Monforte d’Alba, La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba, it makes up for in prestige, thanks largely to the historical importance of the Cannubi vineyard. Cannubi is undisputedly one of Italy’s great “Grand Crus”, with ancient documents marking out its significance for the region as early as the 1700s. The soils across the Barolo commune are broadly the softer Tortonian, made up of Sant’Agata Fossil marls, clay and sand, as opposed to the older, harder and calcareous Serravalian soils found mainly in Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba. Being overall lower in elevation the diurnal shift here is not as pronounced as it is in other communes and this, combined with generally deep, complex soils tends to produce grapes which ripen earlier. Consequently, the wines of Barolo are prized for their rich fruits, bold but sweet tannins and overall engaging personalities. The wines of Barolo tend to drink on the early side, despite a concentration level which routinely allows for extended ageing if desired.
La Morra (Barolo)
The small, pretty village of La Morra is the focal point for what is in fact the largest commune in the appellation, both in terms of production and area under vine. The wines of La Morra have a reputation for elegance, perfume, and finesse, even if the reality is a little more complex. Given that there are 62 wineries physically located in La Morra, and many who vinify wine from the area elsewhere, it is unsurprising that La Morra plays host to a wide range of Barolo styles. Overall though, the facts are that it is, with Monforte d’Alba, the highest commune, which means extreme shifts in temperature between day and night – perfect for ripening Nebbiolo with huge perfumes and fresh acidities. La Morra can be broken down in to three (premium) sub-regions, each producing wines in subtly different styles. First, the vineyards around Santa Maria; the wines here tend to be correct and solid, if perhaps not enormously complex. Second, the cluster of vineyards around the hamlet of Annunziata – home to the mighty Rocche dell Annunziata and the lesser-known but high quality Arborina and Torriglione. Here the wines tend to be rounder and fuller with marked violet and rose perfumes. And lastly, the vineyards on the small but steep ridge comprising La Serra, Cerequio, Brunate and Fossati; Champions League sites which marry La Morra’s hallmark perfume and seductive profile with a certain mineral austerity. The commune’s overall soil composition is complex but, like Barolo, is comprised primarily of silty-clay-sandy Tortonian soils with pockets of limestone.
Verduno (Barolo)
A commune that for a long time sat under the radar but is now widely regarded as one of the region’s most exciting, Verduno is famed for the Monvigliero vineyard – a small, steep amphitheatre producing some of Barolo’s most collectible wines. The northern outpost of the Barolo zone, Verduno is unique in being directly influenced by the Tanaro river which separates Barolo from Barbaresco. Well exposed vineyards and continuous breezes, combined with slightly lower temperatures produces Barolos of soaring aromatics, lightness and spice. A radiant, almost Burgundian character characterises many of the wines produced here. Vineyards such as Massara and San Lorenzo tend to provide accessible drinking options in typically bright, perfumed styles, while Monvigliero’s deeper minerality and complexity generally requires a decade or more in the cellar before it expresses its true potential.
Castiglione Falletto (Barolo)
Castiglione Falletto, though small, is certainly one of the most prestigious in the Langhe. Vineyards such as Monprivato, Rocche di Castiglione and Villero have long been highly desirable, and in recent decades vineyards such as Bricco Fiasco (Bric del Fiasc), Scarrone and Bricco Boschis have seen a surge in reputation thanks to a younger generation of producers. Located in the centre of the Barolo appellation, Castiglione Falletto, sits on the rift between the Tortonian and the Serravalian soils. Some argue that they therefore benefit from the fruit purity and finesse of the former and also have the minerality and depth of the latter. There is no doubt that the best wines from this commune age tremendously well, and yet the sandier sites in particular, of which there are a number, produce wines which are on the whole remarkably charming and attractive in youth. An overall balance of power and aromatic complexity is perhaps that which best characterises Castiglione Falletto. Typically, the wines are potent and mineral, with waves of strawberries, cherries and spices.
Serralunga d’Alba (Barolo)
Located in the eastern side of the appellation, Serralunga d’Alba has the highest number of classified single crus in the Barolo region and historically served as an important component in traditional Barolo Classico blends. A clearlydefined, baritone, austere profile to its wines has always made it a highly desirable area for Nebbiolo. The commune is characterised by a long ridge line which runs north to south, dividing the vineyards between the south south-west exposures and the south south-east. On the eastern slopes, vineyards such as Brea, Prapo and Cerretta tend to produce structured but polished Barolos with complex licorice and blue fruited notes, with powerful but wellripened tannins. On the western slopes, the drier soils of Vigna Rionda and Margheria, for example, tend to produce wines of a more deeply mineral, stony, saline expression. Serralunga sits, unsurprisingly, in the Serravallian sector where the soils are older and more compacted with a higher proportion of limestone and white and grey marls.
Monforte d’Alba (Barolo)
Monforte d’Alba is, like La Morra, a large and high commune. However, unlike La Morra, and especially Serralunga, the maps in Monforte were drawn to allow for fewer but more extended single vineyards. That a vineyard as large as Bussia, for example, could possibly have a clear-enough identity to be consistent across all producers is a bit of a fallacy, and this combined with a significant increase in Nebbiolo plantings over recent decades in areas deemed unsuitable has put the commune in a slightly troubled position. When the wines are well made and gently handled, they are dark and powerful, but at the same time mineral, fragrant and fine boned. Salty, fragrant, ferrous, almost citrus-driven Barolos are typical of the commune. At times though, the true terroir of Monforte can be lost in a world of power and structure, so it is important to follow producers whose style resonates with one’s palate. Ginestra and Bussia (specifically the sub-plots of Pianpolvere and Dardi) are the two most lauded and historic crus of Monforte, however Gramolere and Perno produce increasingly fine wines too. The soils are Serravallian but do vary within that from vineyard to vineyard.
Neive (Barbaresco)
As a rule, the wines of Barbaresco tend to drink slightly earlier than those of Barolo. This is evidenced in many of the beautifully succulent, full-bodied wines found in the Neive commune. Built around fruit expression and bold but ripe tannins, some of Barbaresco’s most lauded wines hail from Neive. The soils in Neive have a high presence of sand and grey marls, with a seam of limestone and clay underlying, and a high presence of Sant’Agata Fossils. This means well-draining, drier soils on the top-surface with sufficient depth underlying to ensure a steady water supply. The vines’ roots are forced to bury deep in in order to stabilise and as such there is a high proportion of old vines here which are prized for their consistency, power, and complexity. High-toned, floral and bewitching Barbarescos of intensity and complexity.
Barbaresco (Barbaresco)
The historic commune in the heart of the appellation, Barbaresco itself produces complete, rounded expressions of Nebbiolo, resplendent with fine, linear tannins, brittle but jostling perfumes and lashings of red fruits and spices. Elevations overall are not especially high compared to Barolo and, in Barbaresco, Treiso, but a slightly cooler and breezier micro-climate next to Neive means great freshness, while a high presence of sand in some of the most fabled sites such as Asili produces wines of incredible refinement and noble aroma. Rabaja, the other bona-fide Grand Cru in the commune, tends to display darker, spicier berried fruits, with epic energy and fine balsamic and mineral notes. For those starting out, Barbaresco tends to produce very consistent, fruity and pretty wines with long aging potential.
Treiso (Barbaresco)
The highest commune in the Barbaresco appellation, rising to over 400m, Treiso is notably cooler than its two neighbours, in some cases ripening almost a full month later. Harder and more compact soils, more Serravallian in profile, means darker and slightly wilder-styled wines tending towards crisp, forest fruit flavours, earth, salt and spices. Where the wines are occasionally described as austere, this is rarely borne out in the best examples, which combine freshness, depth and tense, jewel-like berry flavours.
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