Château Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2016

Martin and Olivier Bouygues, of the Bouygues construction and communications empire hold the keys to this magnificent second growth Chateau. In fact it is Martin's wife, Melissa who is the official President of Montrose. The wines of this great estate were firm favourites of their father. In 1995 after an experience with a bottle of the 1990, Martin vowed to buy the chateau. Sure enough, 10 years later and he was in possession of the keys. A huge renovation project began in the cellars, a 20 hectare parcel was re-patriated from Phelan Segur and two of the biggest names in Bordeaux were appointed as directors: Hervé Berland and Jean-Bernard Delmas - clear intent that the Bouygues meant business... This is definitely a chateau with first growth pretentions, producing wines to back that up. We were the first 'foreigners' to taste the final blend when we visited in February and we were mighty impressed. Would the sample live up to our lofty expectations? The answer was an emphatic yes. On this showing the wine has become a little more introverted and less aromatic, but the intensity, concentration and class are all very evident. Nicolas Glumineau of Pichon Lalande, the former wine-maker at Montrose explained that for him Montrose always possesses this extraordinary power. He would never worry about concentration, the objective was to manage the tannic structure. In 2016 it is mission accomplished. Brooding and introverted, a mass of tightly coiled minerals, small berry fruit, chalk and flowers. The palate offers a stunning robe of cool cassis and liqueur fruits; this is so taut and precise. It gives no impression of weight, yet there is real gravitas here, a latent power than is ever present yet unnoticeable. The tannins are grand and nuanced with beautiful, refined fruit. This is certainly one of the most serious wines of the vintage. Chapeau!