Château Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2018

There have been so many exceptional wines produced at Montrose over the last decade. Even after Nicolas Glumineau left the team, they have continued on an upward trajectory. For us the reference point is the sublime 2016. This is a wine that had it all: power, depth and something quite ethereal, a detail and fine boned structure that we hadn't detected before. The attention to detail and meticulous approach to every aspect of production is clearly paying dividends. The team has successfully harnessed the power of this terroir and expressed it in a more refined and elegant fashion. The grand vin is exactly that. Produced from 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this is one of the most profound and concentrated wines of the vintage. When we met with Hervé Berland earlier in the year he was clearly delighted with the quality but explained that yields were a paltry 21 hl/ha, which in part explains the concentration. Berries were 20% smaller than average with thick skins and little juice inside. 'Concentrated juices of exceptional richness'. The bouquet is a seductive mix of black fruit, Asian spices, black tea, nori, griotte liqueur, cut flowers and deep graphite. Sumptuous, but taut fruit flows over the palate; this has huge concentration and length, possibly the most profound wine we tasted all week. There is real gravitas and sophistication here. A multidimensional, layered palate of creamy dark fruit, decadent raspberry and complex minerals leads to a hugely impressive, starry finish that goes on and on. These tannins are epic. They grip the mouth with authority painting a nuanced and lingering image. This captures the detail and precision of the 2016 Montrose with a more massive and concentrated style of 2018. An astonishing Montrose.