Barolo, Cerretta, 2019

It is fascinating to taste a line-up of three first rate Serralunga vineyards side-by-side. If the Margheria centred on the nerve and spice, and San Rocco depth of fruit and concentration, then the Cerretta is marked out by its elegance of perfume. Full bodied with silky fine boned tannins, it is laced with notes of wild flowers, violet and incense. There is a sensuality to the red and black fruits and a tapered feel on the finish. A really outstanding Barolo. Azelia has one big block of 2.5ha here, but only 3500 bottles are produced under the cru label. The wine is aged in one big barrel for 30 months. Most of the rest of the wine is declassified and blended into the Barolo Classico. Originally, they rented the plot and replanted it entirely on the understanding that they would have first refusal to buy. Ten years later it was theirs. This was thirty years ago. Cerretta has been Luigi Scavino’s baby from start to finish. 2016 was the first vintage vinified separately. The soils are a blend of clay, limestone and chalk.