Château Calon Ségur, 3ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2017

Laurent Dufau, Vincent Millet and Eric Boissenot produce one of the most sought after wines in the Medoc. Laurent has undertaken a huge replanting project to both improve the density of plantings and increase the share of Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyard. The blend for the 2017 is the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon we can recall in Calon Segur, 76% with 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. As ever, extractions are gentle and the style is vibrant with a reserved power. Grapes were cooled down before going into tank to retain freshness and quality of fruit. Then followed an 18 day cuvaison, the team here felt that this wasn't a vintage to push. They reintegrated the press wines very early to add some mid palate weight. The bouquet is distinctly Cabernet with notes of cool hedgerow fruit, griotte, cassis and stones. There's a cool spice to the bitter cherry flavours. Deftly made, quite technical, but there is much to admire: the quality of fruit, the persistent flavours, the beautifully honed tannins, the freshness and intensity. This is a complete and rather impressive Calon made in the new house style.