Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2004
Pierre Lurton decided to use merely 50% of the crop for the first wine, 23% went into Petit Cheval and the rest was sold off in bulk. A blend of 55% Cabernet Frand and 45% Merlot, this has a wonderful colour, not all excessively extracted. High-toned aromas of soft pure fruit on the nose, good concentration, and plenty of depth. Wonderful complexity on the palate, with fascinating layers of flavour, super-smooth tannins, great precision and elegant freshness. Plenty of secondary characters develop on the back of the palate and flavours linger beguilingly. Very impressive.
critic reviews
The 2004 Cheval Blanc has a light and expressive bouquet. Tasting it after the nascent 2023, it is a tricky comparison, with touches of black fruit, iodine, and a little leafiness developing in the glass. It is not powerful by any means and perhaps a little one-dimensional compared to the canon of the great Cheval Blanc. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins, hints of sour cherries, marmalade and spice box. There is even a hint of Indian spices toward the end. Drinking perfectly now, this is a lovely Cheval Blanc. It is not a complex wine, but it is very commendable for the vintage.
The 2004 Cheval Blanc has always been a wine that I felt needed patience on behalf of the wine lover, and so it is proving to be the case. Served blind I remarked upon a surprisingly Burgundy-like bouquet with ample red cherries, candied strawberry and redcurrant scents, the Merlot clearly more conspicuous than the Cabernet Franc, at least for now. The palate is medium-bodied with just a touch of coarseness on the entry. I appreciate the weight and balance here and belatedly the Cabernet Franc begins to express itself on the latter half, lending structure and grip, a dash of spice and a bit of sinew. Whilst it will never have the persistence of other vintages and regrettably continue to be dwarfed by the 2005, it remains a very fine Cheval Blanc from Pierre Lurton and his team. Tasted September 2016.