Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2012
The Cheval Blanc team worked hard in the vineyard throughout July and August. After veraison, any green fruit was dropped to help the vines ripen the berries that had changed colour. 35 of the 45 plots at the estate were used in the grand vin including a 1.4 hectare site that used to form part of Tour du Pin. This vineyard has been classified 1er Grand Cru Classé 'A' and has been added to the Cheval Blanc estate, the first acquisition since 1871. The final blend is 54% Merlot and 46% Cabernet Franc. Quite closed and reserved initially, but after some coaxing one can glimpse into this brooding, sleek, monolith. Liquid minerals and a medley of dark liqueur fruit dominate, interspersed with anise, Asian spice, cedar and cigar box. The palate is packed with griotte liqueur, bilberries and graphity minerality. This is an example of perfectionist winemaking; the fruit is pure velvet and the tannins are those of the finest Cabernet. Sleek, refined, powerful and hugely impressive. A fantastic Cheval Blanc.
critic reviews
The 2012 Cheval Blanc is deep garnet-brick in color. Notes of cigar box, Chinese five spice, and plum preserves all leap from the nose, leading to hints of dried cherries, dusty soil, graphite, and garrigue. The medium-bodied palate is both generous and lively, with velvety tannins to support and a long, spicy finish.
The 2012 Cheval Blanc has a lovely bouquet with raspberry coulis, hints of marmalade and just a touch of espresso, nicely detailed though not intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a strict entry. This is quite backward and tight, lightly spiced with a touch of sour cherry and cracked black pepper on the finish. This is a delicious, well-crafted Cheval Blanc. A second bottle demonstrates just a little more backbone and persistence. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting.
Seductive, rich flavours, far more creamy in its fruit expression than many of the top Left Banks in the 2012 vintage, and yet also higher in fresh acidities, giving a lovely push-and-pull contrast. Persistent, with sage and white pepper spice, this is a nuanced and sculputed wine, full of personality and grace. Not the depth of the truly great vintages at Cheval such as the 2010 or 2016, but this is one of the wines of the tasting, with layers of flavour that will take decades to fully unwind. 100% new oak.