Château Grand Puy Lacoste, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2003
Unusually for a property of this size (55ha), “GPL” consists of a single block of vines, rather than many parcels dotted about the appellation. The true character of the wine is therefore always apparent, as it is not possible to favour grapes from one location over another in the final blend, as many properties do in a difficult year. Yields and overall production were down by 10-15% on 2002 figures, but Xavier Borie has again made a well honed, balanced wine with charm and power. The nose is quite closed but very ripe and rich, and as the flavours develop on the palate, so does the wine’s charm. It is not blowsy, jumping out of the glass immediately, but makes friends slowly, the result being a more long-term relationship, as rich ripe fruit flavours linger in the mouth. Very good indeed.
critic reviews
The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It's tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A little untamed, which is unusual for this Pauillac, but then again, why not once in a while? Tasted at the château.
Medium to deep garnet-brick colored, the 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste delivers notes of dried mulberries, fruitcake, and sandalwood, plus suggestions of cigar box and potpourri. The medium-bodied palate has ample fruit on the mid-palate with plush tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing with impressive length.
The deep gravel soils that you find at Grand Puy Lacoste are not ideal for a vintage as hot and dry as 2003, and you do feel the impact of drier fruits, with fig and prune evident along with more generous blackberry and raspberry. Still has a fresh feel on the finish with fennel, eucalyptus and autumnal leaf aromatics. This is gentle and appealing, softer than many vintages but still with personality and hold. Harvest October 15 to 26, 70% new oak.
An atypically superficial effort from one of my favorite Pauillacs, the 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is very good, but it does not stand up to some of the finest northern Medoc offerings. A deep ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by a moderately intense bouquet of black currants and underbrush. It hits the palate with good fruit and medium body, but tails off in the finish. It is an elegant, lighter-styled example of this generally high-class performer. It can be consumed over the next 10-12 years.