Château Haut Bages Libéral, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac,

This is a refreshing Pauillac with concentration and character, plenty of appellation signature, slate, liquorice, mint, crushed rocks, has that intense, knitted down vintage signature but softens to show classic balance - sometjing that is unusual in this vintage that is anything but classic. Small concrete eggs for ageing and vinification along with barrels, 45hl/h yield (the highest in all of Pauillac reportedly; impressive for a biodynamic estate). 3.54ph. Impressive, one to look out for. Owner Claire Villars-Lurton has pulled up 1,500 Melrot vines to plant 400 trees over the past few years as part of her extensive agroforestry project. 40% new oak, 40% barrels of one wine, 20% in concrete eggs and amphora.

The 2022 Haut-Bages-Libéral was picked from 6 to 26 September and is being raised in 40% new oak, plus 20% in concrete tanks and amphorae. Yields were 45hL/ha, higher than many other estates, which Clare Villars-Lurton cites as a result of their long-term application of biodynamic viticulture and use of cover crops. It has an entrancing bouquet with blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light estuarine scents, understated initially but rapidly gaining intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and saline with sculpted tannins, stunning balance and a mineral finish. This is an outstanding, vivacious 2022 from proprietor Claire Villars-Lurton.