Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 2006

Though closed on the nose, one gets gentle ripe berries, subtle smoky oak, and fine gravelly terroir and liquorice beyond that. The palate is awash with pure ripe fruit, compôte of blackcurrants, smooth oak, fine gravel and dry tannins, and rich secondary flavours of tobacco; there is also tightly packed violet and vanilla, blueberries and minerals. The feel of the palate begins clean and polished and develops into a sensation of velvet and cream. There is significant structure within, considerable power balanced with great elegance, and two decades of cellaring will be required. A very fine effort. Blended from 57% merlot, 41% cabernet sauvignon and 2% cabernet franc, with yields at 43hl/ha. (With luck, Prince Robert will succeed in his ongoing attempts to buy back some of the surrounding houses to plant more vines, so more fans will be able to enjoy such wines in the future!)