
Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 2012
Jean-Philippe Delmas explained that the yield is down as they had to eliminate green bunches in the summer and undertook some 'toilettage' in August, the process of cutting berries mid veraison. The yields are still a healthy 45hl/ha, which is much better than many estates have achieved in 2012. Picking commenced on the 17th of September and finished on the 9th of October. Botrytis was beginning to affect the Cabernets, so these had to be picked and not necessarily at optimum ripeness. The Merlots were by contrast very ripe and possessed high potential alcohols. Jean-Philippe said that in terms of analytical comparison, the 2012 is most similar to the 2006, however upon tasting he sees more in common with the 2001 but with more concentration, alcohol and power. Dark fruit liqueur, crushed rocks, and griotte; the palate is ever so pure with velvety raspberry and cherry fruit. This is very regal, cashmere lined claret with a wonderful tannic spine. Produced from 65.5% Merlot, 32.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.
critic reviews
Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2012 Haut-Brion leaps with vibrant blackcurrant cordial, preserved plums, tar, and licorice scents, followed by touches of graphite, dried roses, and cardamom plus a hint of crushed rocks. Full-bodied, firm, and very fine-grained, it has loads of savory and mineral layers leading to a long, decadently rich, fruity finish on this very pure and youthful wine. The blend is 65% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc.
The 2012 Haut-Brion is beginning to flex its muscles. The bouquet is perhaps one of the most backward of the five First Growths, the Merlot firmly in the driving seat. Blackcurrant mixes with pitted black olives and cedar, and light sous-bois scents percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, very good weight, plummy and lightly spiced with plenty of weight on the slightly meaty finish. This is an excellent Haut-Brion, but it needs bottle age. Tasted blind in Bordeaux.
Whiff of gunsmoke reduction, opening up to show concentrated dark berry fruit with liqourice, pencil lead, campfire and black truffle. Stately and muscular, a brilliant counterpoint to the grace of La Mission Haut-Brion. Grips the palate, this is one of the highest alcohol wines in the vintage and yet it is balanced, with so much flavour and presence that just fills the palate and hangs on. I remember loving this En Primeur, and at the 10 years on mark it remains one of the wines of the vintage. 100% new oak.
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