critic reviews
The 2023 Malescot St. Exupery is medium to deep garnet-purple in color. It offers up classic scents of blackcurrants, kirsch, and pencil shavings followed by nuances of crushed rocks and cardamom. The medium-bodied palate delivers a firm frame of grainy tannins and well-knit freshness to support the taut black fruit, finishing long with a minerally lift.
Dark plum colour, this is inky, richly oaked, right on brand, with cloves, cassis, liqourice and cocoa dusting. Léa Zuger come back five years ago from Cananda to take over at the estate from her father who is looking to retire, and she is looking to lower the oak influence over next few years. Michel Rolland continues to work with them (as of 1991) himself, which is unusual these days. 60% new oak, harvest september 19 though to October 10. 39hl/h yield, 26.8ha in production right now because just pulled out their Cabernet Franc and will replant with Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 2023 Malescot Saint Exupéry was cropped at 38hL/ha, picked a day later than the previous year. Lea Zuger told me that they now use six foudres installed in November, meaning there is 60% new oak—less than other vintages. Barrel-maturation will be 14 to 16 months. Whereas in 2022, nearly all the estate’s fruit went into the Grand Vin, this year it represents 75% of the volume. Displaying blackberry and briar on the nose, this demands some coaxing from the glass. There’s just a light, confit-like aroma in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure, slightly powdery tannins, modest weight and noticeably fresh acidity and salinity, the latter especially prominent toward the finish. More classically hewn compared to the 2022, this will require five or six years in bottle. Classy.
One of the most suave, classy vintages from this estate in some years, the 2023 Malescot St. Exupery is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, berries, licorice and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and a harmonious, integrated profile. Part of the blend is maturing in foudre.