2020
3x75cl
DP
£506.41
vintage
portfolio
2020
3x75cl
DP
£506.41
Broking
2020
6x75cl
DP
£955.22
Aurélien Vallance explained that “The wet warm spring brought significant mildew pressure, but the Margaux team was able to fight it using exclusively organic products. Flowering was early and even (10-15 days in advance of the norm), but we noted that the bunches had less grapes than normal. Summer was exceptionally dry. Margaux experienced 50 consecutive days without a drop of rain. Luckily there was enough water in the soil to supply the vines until a huge storm on the 12th August unleashed 80 mm of rain. We were concerned it might be too much, but the berries didn’t swell. There was just one additional day of rain with 20 mm, then sunny and dry conditions returned. Harvest was early, conducted between the 10th and 30th September. The berries were very tannic and we had to be very careful with extractions, it was the smallest and most controlled extraction we’ve ever done at Margaux. This gentle approach with no pumping over resulted in very ripe, velvety tannins, wonderful freshness to the fruit and relatively low alcohols.” Pavillon Rouge represents 31% of the production. Aurélien noted a “great homogeneity” in the fruit, which allowed a greater proportion of fruit into the blend. This leaps out of the glass with a wonderful fragrance of sandalwood, mulberry, violets and potpourri. There’s a glorious attack of dark cherries, liquorice and spices; refined, long and detailed with a slight creaminess, but not as noticeable as the 2019, this is more strict and classical, vibrant, so light footed for such a concentrated wine it develops and unfurls to reveal a wonderful finish. To our surprise, this is analytically more tannic than the 2010, yet you hardly notice them – they’re harmonious, ripe and integrated. Exquisite, and closer to the Grand Vin style than ever. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 13.6% alcohol.
As one would expect from one of the Left Bank’s First Growths, the Grand Vin de Chateau Margaux is one of the most profound and most sought-after wines of Bordeaux. Recent vintages have reached new peaks, harnessing the natural power of the terroir with an extraordinary precision and texture. Few wines combine such haunting perfume, elegance and ethereal complexity.
The Mentzelopoulos family bought the estate from the Ginestet family in 1977. In an era of appalling vintages and economic depression in Bordeaux, Andre Mentzelopoulos invested in improving drainage, replanted vines, built a new barrel cellar and encouraged the use of a second label, Pavillon Rouge to improve quality. Sadly, Andre died in 1980 before the fruits of his labour were realised, but it was his vision and enterprise that laid the foundations for success. His daughter, Corrine along with the long-term general manager, Paul Pontallier continued the program of investment. Paul dedicated his working life to Chateau Margaux, restoring its reputation and pursuing excellence ceaselessly. His last vintage was the magnificent 2015, a fitting acknowledgement to his life and work.
There has been a general trend towards producing wines with very high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It was Paul’s belief that the finest gravel croupes are best suited to Cabernet. Much of the Merlot that was utilized in the Grand Vin is now blended into the second label, Pavillon Rouge and a new third label (simply called Margaux). A 12 hectare vineyard further inland, planted with Sauvignon Blanc, is used to produce their excellent white wine, Pavillon Blanc. Alas, this tense, mineral infused cuvee is produced in miniscule quantities and is a rarity to our list.
Great as the wine of Chateau Margaux is, no introduction to this estate would be complete without mention of the magnificent Chateau, built by the Marquis de Colonilla and designed by Louis Combes. The Marquis allegedly had no real interest in wine, but his legacy is still enjoyed by everyone who visits. More recently, Sir Norman Foster and Partners designed a state-of-the-art winery, which blends seamlessly with its early 19th century surroundings.
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