Château Palmer, 3ème Cru Classé, Margaux, 2023
As with the Alter Ego, this is a big, ambitious style of Palmer, but it has the structure and gravitas to pull it off. Very noir, a dark, brooding, rather surly bouquet of graphite, some floral notes and sweet earth. The palate is taut and composed, boasting lots of griotte, mulberry and cacao. It's quite unctuous without being heavy, the fruit remains vivid and fresh, supported by some serious tannic structure. Produced from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, this is a very impressive, quite grand-scale Palmer.
critic reviews
The 2023 Palmer was bottled in July 2026, the same time as Alter Ego. As you might expect, this is a little more control and precision on the nose by comparison, hints of peony and violet pinpointing its Margaux origin. Superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins. Just a bit more backbone at the moment compared to its First Growth neighbor tasted directly before, a little more graphite comes through toward the finish. This Palmer coats the mouth and seems to be one of the most mineral-driven within the Margaux appellation. Excellent.
The 2023 Palmer is opaque purple-black in color. A little broody and subdued to start, notes of tar, damp soil, and crushed rocks soon give way to a core of fresh blackcurrants, wild blueberries, and Morello cherries with a touch of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate delivers bright, shimmery black and red berry flavors with a satiny texture and racy backbone, finishing on a lingering ferrous note. The blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot.
More reserved and understated than the Alter Ego on the first nose, with touch of gumoke reduction, but it doesn't take long to understand that this Palmer is full of coiled energy and lift. A ton of graphite, crushed rocks, crushed roses and peonies come in waves of aromatics through the palate, along with clearly defined and sculpted blue and red fruits. There is spice too, and a sense of momentum. 32hl/h yield, 55% new oak for ageing during the first year; with the wine then moving in moves into 3000l oak casks for the second year.
Director Thomas Duroux and his team elected to harvest late in pursuit of full maturity, beginning with the Merlot on September 11 and finishing the Cabernet Sauvignon on October 5 to produce a beautiful 2023 Palmer, redolent of cherries, wild berries, rose petals and violets. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, it's medium to full-bodied, plush and enveloping, with a cool core of fruit, succulent acids, ultra-refined tannins and a seamless, complete profile.