critic reviews
The 2003 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples, I just find it monotonous compared to the wondrous 1983 served alongside. The palate is sweet on the entry, with plenty of almost saccharine black cherries and cassis fruit, though here I remark on a nagging vegetal note right on the finish. Tasted blind at the château.
Blended from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 0% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot, the 2003 Pichon Lalande has a deep garnet-brick color. It gallops out of the glass with powerful notes of crème de cassis, baked black plums, and incense, followed by suggestions of Indian spices, chargrill, and cracked black pepper. The medium-bodied palate delivers a sturdy, rugged structure with muscular fruit and a firm finish.
The real surprise for me in this lineup, with clear sweetness to the fruit. It is ripe in character, reflecting the heat of the vintage, touches of fig and prune, a ton of chocolate and cinammon spice layering on the gourmet appeal. Less grip than many of the vintages on display here, with a softness to the tannins and cured leather notes that suggest it is ageing relatively quickly, but still alive and kicking and giving pleasure right now, and they have teased crushed mint leaf out of the finish. Drink now, or within next five to 10 years. Slight VA on the nose as it opens. Harvest September 10 to 26. 3.77ph.
Made from a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, this spectacular 2003 hits all the sweet spots on the palate. A glorious bouquet of cedarwood, jammy black currants, cherries, licorice and truffle is followed by a dense, opulently textured, full-bodied wine with terrific purity and freshness as well as deep, velvety textured tannins. Enjoy this beauty over the next 10-12 years.