Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, 2014
Alexandre Thienpont's fiche technique describes his 2014 Vieux Chateau Certan as 'charming and delicious', a classically unpretentious statement from one of Bordeaux's most modest vignerons. Yes it is utterly charming and delicious, but this is also ravishing and gorgeous, sexy and seductive and has been touted as one of the wines of the vintage. This is serious stuff. Produced from 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon; gentle, noble, leafy, floral flavours emerge from the glass. These mingle with notes of wood spice, cedar, gravel and gorgeous nervy Cabernet fruit. There is real intensity to the fruit with plenty of substance and density. Polished fruit and spice notes linger on the palate - this is big, but it is refined and gentle at the same time. Serious, persistent and complex; pure fruit flavours endure over the suave yet grippy tannins. This is an understated masterpiece.
critic reviews
The 2014 Vieux Château Certan comes from two bottles, the first out of condition. The second has a potent Cabernet Franc-driven nose, which is no surprise, as it comprises 30% of the blend: bell pepper and black pepper infusing the black fruit. There is almost a Loire-like scent. The palate is medium-bodied with granular tannins, fine acidity and grip with truffle and raspberry. It's earthy with just a touch of dark chocolate on the finish. This Pomerol is surfeit with character and is just about to enter its drinking window. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.
Deep garnet-brick in color, the 2014 Vieux Chateau Certan is a little shy to start, offering up faint notes of candied violets and licorice opening out to a core of preserved plums and Christmas cake plus a waft of sandalwood. The full-bodied palate delivers a refreshing backbone and fine-grained tannins to support the taut, powerful black fruits, finishing long and earthy.
Well judged, a more serious Pomerol than many, so subtle and beguiling in its construction, truffles, white pepper, cranberry, smoked earth, violet flowers, attractive floral edge and this is just gorgeous, grilled and wrapped up in caressing VCC tannins, with an intellectual edge, or rather an edge that keeps you engaged and wanting more.