Puligny Montrachet, Les Combettes, 1er Cru, 2021

Very serious. Power, exceptional definition of flavours, a salty core, but with ripe flesh above. There’s so much here. Brimming with citrus and salt vitality. This will need time but there’s already fabulous Puligny minerality woven throughout it. Sophisticated power and muscle. Haunting length. Spellbinding. Sauzet's example of Combettes is one of the great Premiers Crus of Puligny, up there with Caillerets and Leflaive's Pucelles. From two adjacent plots, one of 30-year-old vines, the other 85 years old, neighbouring Lafon’s vines in Meursault Charmes. A supremely well-exposed vineyard, mid-slope like Champs Canet but with a little less limestone and more clay.